A couple of days ago, as I slumped over a delicious breakfast of a flaky KP and a plate of beef masala, my mind at relative ease despite the obnoxious honking, bleating and blaring of horns and people outside, I came to the unfortunate realization that this city is no longer liveable.
For months now, my mind has been damaged; ambulating in the wake of Bangalore’s hottest summer, crippled by toxic foam from its many lakes and putrefied by the flushed shit from its many overflowing open manholes. We have been kidding ourselves really, thinking that living here makes any sense anymore. It’s a lie we all live, knowing that we are a part of the problem despite not realizing it. Some of us, me included, are holding on, grasping to that little nostalgic thread of a Bangalore that was “better”, jerking-off a misplaced sense of elitist pride knowing that you were here before a majority of the folks in the city, the only “true bangalorean” in your peer group, but it’s all balls. We are actually a bunch of lost children with no identity, because a Bangalorean doesn’t really have an identity. An identity only exists when a city has a soul. This city has no soul. This city has traffic. That is your identity. No “Pub City”, no “Garden City”, no nothing. Traffic. That is the single most unifying thing in Bangalore. Traffic. The one thing that brings together the mal and the telgite, the tam and the Bengali, the Kannadiga and the north Kannadiga. Traffic. So what then is the solution? How does one really make an existence in this unliveable city somewhat liveable? The answer came to me sometime into my third crunchy bite of kerala parotta and a chunky piece of fatty beef.
Islands.
That’s right, Islands. Your very own, tiny, escape islands in the city. Secret fortresses of solitude known to only you and a select aesthete few with the capacity to truly appreciate what your fortress provides. A place that you go to escape from all the hideousness this city dishes out to you daily. A sanctuary of sorts that houses your troubled mind and nurtures it back to normalcy for the next day or week. A sacred place, where you find the deity that brings you peace, maybe in the form of food, maybe in the form of a stiff 90 and chilled soda. Remember, your Island need not be a quiet place. Maybe it’s filled with a rambunctious entourage, brimming with a cacophony of tinkling and milling. Maybe it smells of damp and decayed clothes and sweat and vomit, but it’s still YOUR place, your very own spot, where you can shed your ego and your pretense, just be you, the same you from 10, 15 maybe 20 years ago.
While New Select Hotel in Richmond Town doesn’t necessarily qualify as an Island, I did enjoy a lonely breakfast there at about 10 AM. It was a soothing meal, had in the confines of a rather decrepit shed, the air thick with soot from wood fire cooking stoves. The bubbling from a few vats of slowly simmering beef masala, bheja and khaima were the only things that provided a constant drone of sound through my breakfast, interspersed albeit, with the occasional clang and yell from the inside kitchen. Not a place you’d bring a book too, or stare out the window with a cigarette, but definitely one where you’d allow yourself a moments respite with a pretty decent warm plate of breakfast beef. What more could you ask for really?
So, on that note, what is your island?
Say me yours and I’ll say you mine, bob!
Amaravathi in 9th Block is my personal island, can't recommend it enough, it's everything a bangalore bar should be.
ReplyDeleteSouth bangalore has some excellent joints, Pramukh and nisarga among others.
South Bangalore is as yet unexplored by me! These reccos are gold!
DeleteWhite Horse, Dolphins, Pecos, Dewars Marine, Windsor, Takkesh, Ujwal, Viking, Temptatations, Downtown Pub, Ruchi's
ReplyDeleteOh yeah! This is sounding fabulous!
DeleteI have seen White Horse many a time when I passed through Malleshwaram area. The name was always intriguing but never had a chance to visit. Thanks for all the recommendations. Will try a few out soon.
Delete- SK
I have been a silent admirer of your blog for a few years now, finding it by chance, after I had moved to Bangalore from Mumbai and began looking for information on Bangalore's non-fancy bars, military hotels, ragi-mudde palces and smaller eating joints. I thoroughly enjoy your observations and writings and your passion to hunt for these places and then come back and write about them. I also love reading about the old-time Bangalore and the places that have now disappeared and your memories about them.
ReplyDeleteI loved this particular piece of "secret island" and your interest in documenting your love for the Bangalore bar. I am eagerly waiting to read them. I also am happy to read you are open to meet-ups over drinks. That would be awesome.
Here are three places that come straight to mind I would like to mention as my island/s.
My most regular one is Sarathi, as its located pretty close to where I reside.
Sarathi Bar (also called Sre Sai Krupa's) on old Airport Road. This is on the first floor bang next to Rajeshwari Theatre (less than half a kilometer before HAL airport).
Sea Rock, Seshadripuram. This is near Shivananda circle. This place had good drinks and good Mangalorean food. A couple of years back it was shut down for a long time and I was pretty displeased. Then few months back I see that the place has once again come back but at another building on the same road. Now the bar has been refurbished and made a little upmarket. There is a lady who greets you with a namaste when you enter and leads you to your table. The waiters are the same guys though. I been here a couple of times but I miss the earlier version where in evenings it used to get pretty boistorous and you also saw some politician type of guys coming in for their drinks.
French Connection. I discovered this bar by chance. I go to Woodlands hotel (Richmond Circle) for breakfast once a month. This bar is on the same premises. I decided to come back one day and check it out. Its a neat cozy place. You can choose to sit inside or outside in the garden. The place will remind you of the old-world Bangalore of the 60s-70s perhaps. It has that sort of atmosphere where things dont change. The only problem is its absolutely vegetarian place. One of the very very rare places that I personally found where booze is served but no non-vegetarian.
~ SK
Dear SK,
DeleteThank you for those kind words. It's always good to know that people are still reading. All these suggestions seem to be top class and I must pay a visit soon. Maybe someday I'll bump into you and we could share a quart. Actually no, maybe a quart each!
Hello Kapil,
DeleteHow you been? I haven't seen any update from you in a long long time. Looking forward to something new from you. We should meet up sometime and have that quart each.
regards,
SK
Regency, Koramangla. Near to the hospital. Open till late. Perfect for a well deserved peg to go with a piping hot butter chicken that was more butter than chicken. Kept me sane during internship.
ReplyDeleteHello Charles, Regency sounds interesting. I will it up and see if I can drop in there sometime. Keep the recommendations coming.
ReplyDelete- SK