Sri Chamundeshwari Military Hotel

For an area named after the greatest proponent of sobriety, vegetarianism, indigenous manufacturing, morality and non-violence, Gandhinagar was once home to some of Bangalore’s best cabarets, prostitutes, grey market products, non-vegetarian food and even a high-walled prison. There was gambling here too, still is, in the Races near-by where you can buy a fifty rupee ticket to watch horses run in Mumbai on a 14 inch screen.

It really is quite a shame that the concept of a cabaret was replaced by the sleaze fest that is a dance bar. The transformation they say took place sometime in the 1980’s. Until the 70’s, a cabaret was a variety show, a platform for exhibitionists, where shows blended artistic merit with casual displays of skin and unapologetic thrusting of body parts to live music. Performers were sometimes famous, their patrons, wealthy pedigreed men and the locations themselves maintained a hint of opulence with a dash of garishness so you didn’t feel out of home too much in case you didn’t drive up in a Standard Herald or a Premier Padmini. It was an evening out that some of us will never understand. While it was still looked down upon within the orthodox mind-set prevalent at the time, one could traverse the Cabaret scene regularly without being branded the ‘immoral’ type. The meta-morphosing of the cabaret to the present day socially-objectionable concept of a dance bar is akin to the Mogwai to Gremlin transformation.

Anyways, I seem to have digressed.  The truth is that while almost all dance bars in the area have shut, and the central jail has been torn down and converted to Freedom Park, Gandhinagar remains a fantastic not-often-explored gastronomic destination in Bangalore. Right from the once famous Aangan Dhaba near Race Course Road to Kamat Yatri Nivas for joladd roti meals and even Fish Land, that much loved pre-bus food and drink location for departing Konkanis, Gandhinagar is a treasure trove of gastro-delights. Even the Sukh Sagar next to National Market served up some serious belters of south indian style north indian food. That’s right, south indian style north indian food is a thing, and can’t nobody deny it. There are many many other messes, holes in the walls, push carts, bakeries, samosa-kachori vendors, dosa kadaiis, and assorted etceteras littered all around the adjoining roads leading up to to City Civil Court, Anand Rao Circle or KG Road that deserve attention, and have received a fair share from me during my days on an RX100 around Central College. On this particular occasion, I happen-chanced upon Sri Chamundeshwari Military Hotel.

What an incredible find! Ordered the thalay maamsa, chicken dry fry, chapatti and a raagi ball. The raagi ball was smooth enough to roll on to a snooker table. The chicken, a peppery variety, had face-melt written all over it and the thalay maamsa was a shameless slap on the taste buds.

Best enjoyed alone. Silhouetted against a window.  Aha! Oho! Aha!