Thursday, November 13, 2014

Phaal the love of god



Padma wheezed her last to a busted crank shaft outside the Infant Jesus Church in Vivek Nagar yesterday. A fortuitous miracle, I’m inclined to believe, since Tanveer Bhai (my normal mechanic), happens to have a run-down garage less than a block away. It was 6 PM and I knew I was atleast an hour away from receiving my first hefty quote on the money involved in getting her up and running. Silently, I prayed to Baby J, hoping that the damage would be minimal. This, of course, was an exercise in futility. Every Standard 350 owner knows that if he pushes his bike in to a mechanic, any mechanic in Bangalore, for anything other than a flat tyre, he better have a small fortune saved up to pay for repairs. As Tanveer Bhai began opening up the engine block to assess the non-existent damage, my thoughts wandered to the fantastic prospect of an early evening snack. What better place than Vivek Nagar to have an early evening slam fest.

It was then that something dawned on me that I have been thinking about ever since.

You really have spent way too long in a city when you can have an unexpected vehicular breakdown in a random area, know where the closest ‘specialist’ mechanic is, definitely know where you can grab a snack while you wait, a fantastic one at that, and also know at least 5 different routes back home, each a back-up plan in case of encountered 7 PM traffic. Better than an auto-driver. Really, you know the shortest way back better than the auto-guy who promises to take you home in quick time. Well enough to argue with him about every single wrong turn he took. What’s worse (or better?!), is that you can even find a twice-visited bar within 100 feet from any location, just in case it’s Friday and Tanveer Bhai needs to head for namaazaan and you have a little more than an hour to kill. There may be other signs too, like the familiarity in smells and sounds. Indiranagar, for example, smells of yesterday’s spilt beer and sounds like non-kannada speaking people; Malleshwaram, smells of temple flowers and sounds like loud sipped filter kaapi, KR Market of rotting vegetables and echoed BTS bus honks; Jayanagar of fresh rain and bicycle pedals, Koramangala of Bengali food and college banter, Old Madras Road of carbon monoxide and accidents. Heck, you might even know a secluded spot well enough for when you really have to take a tutt near Sony signal. 

The obvious question then is, is that really a good thing or a bad thing? Personally, while I do feel that there is a certain mundaneness to living a routine life in a not so impressive city, there are always these tiny little surprises that make it all worthwhile. Take for example, this ‘Beef Kebab’ stall in Viveknagar. Manned by an obvious out-of-work butcher helming two pots of kerosene, one a lamp to intensify an already horrific setting, with the blood lettering and all, and the second to deep fry particulate matter of unidentified beef cuts. The reason I believe he was an out-of-work butcher was because he corrected me when I asked for ‘Veal Kebab’. “Not veal kebab saar. Full grown beef kebab.” Dang, this guy knew his way around a carcass and an abattoir. Interestingly, the kebabs themselves were pretty good. The closest comparison is the popcorn chicken from KFC in size but twice as crunchy in texture. At 30 rupees for a large handful, this was surely some serious booze food. The real find though was this partly constructed eatery where a Miyaan was pan-searing some delectable chaaps. Supremely tender, juicy and altogether better than the phaal that’s normally roasted over charcoals. 





Feels good to be hitting the street again. You never know what you might find when your bike dies on you, no?

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